Patek Philippe is one of the most famous brand names in the world of luxury goods, with the Aquanaut one of its most renowned and well-respected timepieces.
First released in the late 1990s, the Aquanaut was inspired by what came before it – yet remains a prime example of Patek Philippe’s commitment to adapting with the changing desires of its core audience. Today, more than 25 years after its launch and initial release, the Aquanaut is one of the most sought-after watches in the luxury sector – boasting various references, colour palettes, and finishes.
But with so many different luxury timepieces to choose from, how do you know if the Aquanaut is the right one for you?
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is designed with a rounded bezel and watch face, with a dial on one side, and a range of different but often very functional strap designs. One of the most notable things about the Aquanaut is its embossed checkerboard watch face that runs into the straps, with the very first model to be released using rubber for the strap.
While the first Aquanaut was a largely very practical model using active materials, over time the shape and style of the watch has adapted to buyer demand. Models set with gemstones and jewels are available, alongside a multitude of colours and pieces with unique finishes.
But beyond the features that bridge innovation with timeless style, the Aquanaut is renowned for breaking barriers in the luxury sector. In fact, when it was first released, the Aquanaut was not wildly popular among Patek Philippe enthusiasts. It marked a distinct shift away from the showy aesthetic of the brand’s former luxury watches, with its stripped-back and simpler look, and the use of functional rather than high-end materials marking a huge step away from the norm.
In time, this turned out to be the feature that helped the Aquanaut stand out. But it took some years for the benefits and key attributes of this timepiece to become evident.
The Aquanaut has become one of the most prolific and in-demand watches of not just the Patek Philippe collection but the luxury watch market in general. Here are three facts about the watch that you may not know, but which might just inspire or influence the model you end up choosing…
Did you know that the Aquanaut was purposely designed to follow in the footsteps of the Nautilus?
Previously Patek Philippe’s standout model, which was released in 1976, the Nautilus was designed by Gerald Genta in response to a release from the Audemars Piguet brand less than four years earlier. Their Royal Oak timepiece, also designed by Genta, quickly became a sell-out for the brand – with Patek Philippe briefing the designer to create something for them which would command the same buzz.
Quickly, the Nautilus became an iconic watch – not only one of the most expensive in the world, but a luxury made from stainless steel: an innovation in itself. So, where does the Aquanaut fit in?
The Aquanaut came 20 years later, posing as a younger and fresher model that would entice and draw a different audience into the luxury sector. It was purposely functional with its waterproofing, contemporary design, and simple structure. The materials, particularly the rubber strap, marked a complete U-turn from what was understood to be luxurious – while the large size of the watch created a different aesthetic from previous delicate models.
Looking specifically at the face of the Aquanaut watch, you will notice a checked design that is almost three-dimensional in its presentation. This detail, which is likened by some to a grenade-style pattern, underpins the idea of the Aquanaut being a fresher watch aimed at the younger audience. It creates some texture within the design of the watch and is a hallmark of the Aquanaut design, which is replicated in the earliest and later models – regardless of the materials used.
On Patek Philippe’s own site, this approach to design is heralded as being original and dynamic – with buyers citing its standout finish and the simple fact it makes their watch immediately recognisable as a Patek Philippe original.
Finally, all of the features mentioned in this article culminate in a watch that was designed for active use. It’s waterproof, with a smooth bezel that sits comfortably on the wrist, a functional and durable rubber watch strap, and hour markers that reflect light and are easy to read.
Even the more unique and bespoke later models boast the hallmarks of the original Aquanaut, insofar as they replicate the checked watch face design, ensure the hour markers are clear, and embrace practical materials.
All things considered, there are plenty of reasons why the Aquanaut remains one of the most sought-after luxury watches on the market. Inspired by the Nautilus, which was itself inspired by the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet, with both designed by Gerald Genta, the history of the Aquanaut is wrapped up in what we would consider to be horological royalty.
It represents a younger and more contemporary approach to a timepiece that has been popular since its first release in the 1970s, and represents Patek Philippe’s drive to remain relevant for an ever-changing buyer market and audience.
Of course, the popularity of this timepiece means that buying one that is 100% guaranteed to be authentic can be challenging. Our advice is to only ever buy a Patek Philippe watch from a reputable reseller, requesting formal authentication proof before parting with any money.
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