Chanel is known as a brand that consistently breaks barriers and pushes for increased innovation across the market, spearheaded first by Coco Chanel herself, and then under the creative direction of Karl Lagerfeld, who stepped into the role from 1983 until his death in 2019.
As such, the brand has given way to countless creations and eye-catching designs over the years – many of which have become staples in today’s trends and looks. The rollout of the Little Black Dress, the addition of long shoulder straps on women’s handbags, and other hallmarks of fashion all stem from Chanel designs and originals – with the Wallet on Chain bag no different.
Ever since it was first released in the Lagerfeld era in the 1990s, the Wallet on Chain (also known as the WOC) bag has become a must-have among collectors and style lovers alike. But what are the underlying features that make this bag so popular, and how has it changed over the years?
When you first look at the Wallet on Chain bag from Chanel, you’d be forgiven for thinking that someone has taken a classic 2.55 and shrunk it in the wash.
The WOC has been specifically designed to mirror the look of the 2.55 and indeed the Chanel Flap bag that followed, but with a more portable size and integrated card slots and pockets that render this a suitable wallet or compact bag.
Most often found with the quilted Chanel fabric and the interlocking CC logo at the centre of the flap, the WOC is stylish and chic – but places lots of emphasis on function and on the practical aspects of its design. A slim pocket across the back of the bag enables the user to access extra storage that sits tight against their person when the bag is in use. Similarly, the inside of the bag is separated into different storage spaces, with several slots for cards as well as an open interior compartment for other items.
When you consider the hallmark features of the Chanel WOC, it becomes apparent that this is a variation of the 2.55 bag that was considered one of Coco Chanel’s finest creations.
The first bag of its kind to prioritise practical use as well as style, the 2.55 rolled out a long shoulder strap that allowed for the bag to be worn and carried with ease, while still leaving both hands free for other tasks. Adding this to the plethora of integrated pockets and storage compartments, the flap on the bag for security, and the CC logo for extra style, this bag became a must-have and marked a U-turn in the handbag industry.
The WOC is an advance on the 2.55 – only smaller.
It is styled on the classic 2.55 and on Lagerfeld’s subsequent release of the Chanel Flap (a more modern take on the 2.55), and offers many of the same design signatures but as a smaller and more compact accessory.
The various cardholder slots, the open storage compartment in the centre, the slim back pocket, and the large flap that spans the width of the bag all combine function with fashion and make the WOC a version of the 2.55 and Chanel Flap – in an arguably more accessible package.
One of the most loved things about Chanel bags across all collections is the reliance on classic shapes and design formats that work.
The creatives behind these different bags and accessories at Chanel know that the boxy shape, the long strap, and the flap with the interlocking CC design are all traits that people know and love.
And so, every new piece that gets released tends to tap into these popular elements and components – while also evolving. When considering the Chanel Wallet on Chain, the main source of evolution is the size of the bag.
In order to double as a handheld wallet or clutch bag, as well as a shoulder bag, the Wallet on Chain needs to present a smaller build than the original 2.55 and later Chanel Flap bags. And it does.
The WOC comes in two main sizes: a regular and a mini design, which measure at 7.5 and 6 inches in width respectively. Both of these are suitable handheld as well as wearable bags, with the key features of the bag’s structure, as outlined above, all ensuring that it can be carried from day to night.
So, when considering what makes this bag such a staple in the world of modern fashion, the most common answer you’ll get will revolve around timeless style and a highly versatile design. The WOC embraces the trappings and hallmarks of the bags that make Chanel such a coveted luxury brand, but yet again develops these for a new and interested audience – in this case, by making the bag a smaller, more portable, and more accessible size.
Of course, with any original Chanel bag or accessory, demand outweighs supply. As such, finding your own Chanel WOC bag is not always as easy as walking into a retailer and buying the one you like.
Most buyers source their bags through second-hand resellers, opting for reputable boutiques with a rolling collection of stock and onsite authentication checks.
Available in the two main sizes, with a multitude of colours and finishes having been released to market in the decades since the WOC was first announced by Chanel, the Wallet on Chain has become the portable must-have accessory that everyone wants.
If you love the look of the 2.55 and Chanel Flap bags, but want a smaller and more accessible accessory for your wardrobe, then look no further than the Chanel Wallet on Chain.
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